Surfers have a unique role on the planet, in my estimation. Apart from the deep reverance they share for their sport, most surfers also speak of a spiritual connection they achieve only when they are in the water. I think it's like going to church, for them, and I feel the same way when I'm in nature and particularly near the ocean. In any case, I like the way they draw the world's attention to Mother Nature and in some cases to endangered species and/or compromised ecosystems.
Having lived in Redondo Beach, California for seven years of my life, I've been around surfing a lot, but ironically it wasn't until I returned to the San Francisco Bay area that I found myself riveted to the waves. I seek them out like an addiction and must be near them almost daily. Luckily, Half Moon Bay is a gorgeous 20-minute drive out my back door and produces some of the most impressive waves on the planet, at least during the winter months.
Mavericks, near Pillar Point in Half Moon Bay, has gained international attention as one of the premier big wave surfing spots on the globe and recent promotional messaging from
Mavericks Surf Ventures describes their territory as "hallowed ground," which resonates perfectly with my humble impression of the spot. Mavericks is famous for extraordinarily dangerous surfing conditions including icy waters, massive waves, unforgiving turbulence and deadly rocks. I think I forgot to mention the
great white sharks. These surfers regularly ride the edge between life and death, so they need to be at peace within and I would equate surfing at Mavericks to climbing Everest or a meeting with God.
Meanwhile, the local chapter of
Surfrider Foundation interprets this sacred spot in a different light, and has sought to protect the adjacent waters within the
Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary from the use of jet-skis and other motorized personal watercraft (MPWC) used for tow-in surfing. Ironically, Surfrider Foundation itself was founded by a handful of Southern California surfers who came together to protest threats to their local surf break at Malibu Point.
The delicate battle has been going on for nearly a decade and one recent outcome is that effective March 9, 2009, the
NOAA has created new federal regulations and
a new zone for seasonal conditional MPWC use at Mavericks and throughout the sanctuary, which supports one of the world's most diverse marine ecosystems.
The restricted use of jet-skis is probably not great news to local surfers, but they and all surfers typically share a profound level of respect for the ocean and its inhabitants, and continue to play an important role in raising public awareness about the health of our marine ecosystem and its wildlife.
Save the Waves Coalition, also founded by surfers, is making global strides toward protecting coastal environment, with an emphasis on the surf zones naturally! If you are concerned about coastal development or pollution affecting a surfing spot in your area, you can
report a wave to the coalition.
I'm so thankful to the surfer population for its unique role in nature and on our planet!